Sariska: Beyond the Wild

My recent visit to Sariska was everything out of the ordinary. I expected an arid landscape with the Sariska Tiger Reserve its only highlight, but ended up being bowled over by the sanctuary’s history, the thriving wilderness outside the reserve — and my stay, which turned out to be an oasis of sustainable living.

Tall bamboo trees and equally tall jungle grass welcome me as I step into the lush-green 15 acres of Sariska Lodge, my home for the next two days. Sustainability here goes beyond the tagline: from the wooden comb and brush to the cautiously chosen handwoven rugs and upholstery in your room, this is conscious living at its best. The resort harvests its own water, ensuring there’s sufficient supply throughout the year. And every meal here follows the ‘farm to table’ philosophy, one the owners are rightly proud of.

Flowering pomegranate trees and lofty lemongrass sway along the pathway, giving the Lodge its tranquil charm. The property is covered with over 220 species of plants and trees, with many varieties reintroduced from time to time. And after years of nurturing what was once a barren land, its soil today is fertile enough to grow an abundance of organic vegetables and spices.

SPIRIT OF THE LAND

Stepping out of my cosy room with its amazing mountain view was not, I must admit, something I was looking forward to. But, then again, who would want to miss out on a visit to the ancient Neelkanth Mahadev temple? A picturesque uphill drive to the buffer area of the Sariska Tiger Reserve leads one to the shrine, whose intricate carvings are still a sight to behold, and whose architectural mastery has not faded over time. Nearby, and within the temple complex, stands the gigantic statue of a Jain tirthankara, its sandstone a mix of orange and red hues.

Surrounded by the Aravalli range on all sides, this space turns stunningly beautiful as the sun sinks behind the hills. Local children wave at you as you pass them by, all while a resplendent flock of peacocks and langurs grace the way.

WISH UPON A STAR

While chasing the wildlife, one can lose sight of how Sariska’s clear skies have much more to offer. Indeed, the possibilities of observing celestial bodies are limitless here; even with the naked eye, you can marvel at the endless galaxies and constellations.

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Lying on the deck by the pool, the experience of gazing up at a sky bedecked with stars was perhaps the most soul-stirring, and the most memorable experience, I have ever had. As evening falls, and with minimal lighting at ground level, the skies burst into life. And that’s when the magic unfolds. The magic of Orion, the hunter leaping across the cosmos with his bow; of Sirius, the brightest star in the sky, twinkling right above me; and of the constellations of the Zodiacs, almost all of which I could see.

UNTAMED WONDER

Sariska is breathtakingly beautiful. But it’s a beauty that is raw and rustic. Nothing here is curated to please the eye. The park is home to hardy tree species such as the Dhok, Khejri, and Babul. And at every corner, there is a surprise for a city-bred person like me: a herd of goats bringing your car to a halt, or a sounder of wild boars crossing the road with pride in their gait. You can also spot leopards in their habitat, especially among the boulders of Tehla, against the crimson of the dipping sun, a glimpse of a leopard is one that will stay with you. Pre-dating the Aravallis, these igneous rocks, set among undulating terrain dotted with thorny bushes, are home to a good variety of wildlife, including the Indian hyena, golden jackal, and jungle cat.

A VIBE ALL ITS OWN

My Sariska sojourn ended on a romantic note, the heavenly aroma of dinner, cooked over a fire, filling the air, while the melodious strains of Rajasthani folk songs drifted through the night. Before me lay a regal spread of local delights, with the Junglee Maas stealing the spotlight. Up in the sky, the stars were shining bright, keeping up with the mood below (or, was it the other way round?).

As glasses were refilled, there were tales of tiger sightings, and leopard cubs at the backdoor, some true, some clearly fragments of the imagination. What was certainly real was the magic of Sariska

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