Charmed by Guwahati

1SUNRISE AT KAMAKHYA

Absorb the quiet energy of pilgrims heading up Nilachal Hills to Kamakhya Temple, one of India’s most revered Shakti Peethas. A prominent centre of Tantric practice and feminine divinity, this temple is unlike most: there is no idol here, only a natural, spring-fed fissure symbolising creation and the cyclical force of menstruation. From the hilltop, sweeping views of the Brahmaputra bring a sense of calm and scale, giving the shrine a character that feels both deeply spiritual and distinctly its own.

Next stop: Right outside Kamakhya

2BREAKFAST TO RELISH

Just outside the temple premises, rows of food stalls come alive with a diversity of breakfast options. People are often seen in groups relishing the variety of dishes offered here. The must-try here is Poori-Sabji. Hot, fluffy puris served with chole-aloo curry, accompanied by green chutney on the side, ensure a simple yet satisfying start to the day. Another local favourite worth trying is the Assamese pitha — a lightly sweet, rice-based treat often paired with chai.

Next stop: 30 minutes’ drive

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3MORE THAN A RIVER

Prepare to be amazed by the grand Brahmaputra even before setting foot in it. The Mahabahu Brahmaputra River Heritage Centre is a unique cultural space honouring the river through carefully crafted events that draw nature and heritage together. Located inside a 170-year-old colonial bungalow overlooking the Brahmaputra, the centre provides visitors with an easy entry point into Assam’s cultural terrain. The centre is a sneak peek into the culture of Assam.

Next stop: 7 minutes’ walk

4UP, UP & AWAY

Built to ease daily commutes for locals, the Guwahati Ropeway connects two busy parts of Assam’s largest city in just under eight minutes, a journey that can otherwise take over an hour by road. But what began as a practical solution has quickly become one of Guwahati’s most compelling experiences for tourists. Hop into a cable car and soar above the Brahmaputra to get a sense of its impressive size, the leisurely flow of its current, and for a scenic view of the distant hills surrounding it.

Next stop: 15 minutes’ drive

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5TIME TRAVEL

Back on land, head straight to the Assam State Museum to learn about the region’s past. Set up in 1940, the museum hosts an extensive collection of relics, which help trace the development of Assam from ancient times to the present day, including displays of stone and bronze carvings, old manuscripts, artefacts from the Ahom dynasty, and finely handwoven cloths. There is also a gallery that takes you into the world of Assam’s tribes—with plenty to see, set aside at least a couple of hours for your visit.

Next stop: 10 minutes’ drive

6BARGAINS & BITES

By late afternoon, the narrow alleys of Fancy Bazar are buzzing with activity. With its textile stores, spice shops, and stalls selling necessities, this busy space constitutes Guwahati’s commercial hub. Vendors shout at the top of their lungs, cycles dodge past crowds, and shops overflow with items like mekhela chador and Assamese textiles, artificial jewellery, and local spices. Beat the humidity with a chilled Kulhad Lassi or a delicious Kulfi Falooda, and refuel with plates of cheese Momos or Chole Kulche, to make up for all that walking.

Next stop: 7 minutes’ drive

7CRUISING ON THE BRAHMAPUTRA

Return to the river at dusk and treat yourself to a soothing cruise along the Brahmaputra, a 90-minute journey that’s nothing less than a spiritual experience, after the hustle and bustle of Guwahati. With boats gliding slowly across the vast river, the changing colours of the sky, and a cool breeze on the face, it’s a locale that stirs up emotions which are hard to put into words. For others, there’s food and music to enjoy, all set against the Brahmaputra’s backdrop.

Next stop: 15 minutes’ drive

8AN ASSAMESE FEAST

Indulge in a traditional Assamese thali at Khorikaa, a restaurant where subtle spices and balanced flavours unite in thoughtfully made dishes that offer an authentic taste of the region. A meal would include khar, an interesting alkaline preparation, before proceeding onto rice, lentils and stir-fried vegetables. Although fish is a mainstay (as in the tangy fish curry, Masor Tenga), other meats — such as chicken, pork and mutton — are also served. A unique component in much of the cuisine here

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