Lasting Impressions

‘Beauty is only skin deep’ is an adage that refers to the ephemeral quality of conventional beauty. However, with the advent of permanent makeup (PMU), also known as cosmetic tattoo or semi-permanent makeup procedures, the concept of skin-deep beauty has been flipped on its head. If social media metrics are anything to go by, the combination of aesthetics and convenience is driving the popularity of PMU, both internationally and in India.

A SKIN-DEEP SOLUTION

PMU involves the application of pigments into the epidermis layer of the skin, pigments that mimic the appearance of makeup, resulting in enhanced facial features that last for an extended period. “The epidermis is the topmost layer of the skin that sheds over time. This is the biggest difference between a tattoo and permanent makeup. Tattoo pigment is deposited in the dermis of the skin, which does not regenerate and therefore makes the pigment and design stay forever,” says Dr. Shikha Baghi, founder and MD, of Timeless Aesthetics, Gurugram, explaining the difference between conventional tattoos and PMU. Depending on the skin type, PMU treatments can last up to two years, with gradual fading as the epidermis sheds and regenerates. This is perhaps the most vital aspect of PMU — it has to fade over time — asserts Dr. Baghi.

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PMU TREATMENTS IN INDIA

The two most popular facial features considered for PMU are the eyebrows and lips. For eyebrows, there are two treatments—microblading and powder brows. “Eyebrows add a frame and give a dimension to a face,” explains Delhi-based makeup artist Shagun Gupta, who specialises in powder brows. Alia Bhatt, Deepika Padukone and other actors are known to opt for PMU to keep their eyebrows bold and beautiful. “Indians have a predisposition towards dark lips, especially as one ages, so PMU treatments such as lip blush or lip tinting can mask the melanin and the pigmentation,” Dr. Baghi shares, while talking about the popularity of PMU treatments for lips. She adds that this procedure is very popular among both men and women. Other popular PMU treatments on the rise are permanent eyeliner and blush, but Gupta advises on being wary of them, since under full coverage makeup, these get hidden, defeating the purpose of the treatment. Scalp micro-pigmentation is another treatment for those experiencing hair loss. Experts say that PMU is not supposed to give one a flawless makeup look; but improve the natural features. The outcome is dependent on how the skin absorbs the pigment and then heals. “I cannot recommend a full-face PMU because at the end of the day, it is not natural to our body. It is a dye being injected and it will look extremely fake,” says Gupta. Ashmi Singhai, founder and CEO of the Browmasters, Mumbai, adds that one should also be mentally prepared to experience some level of pain during the process.

The tattoo pigment is deposited in the dermis of the skin, which makes it stay there forever, while PMU is planted on the epidermis, the topmost layer, which sheds over time

RISING DEMAND

In comparison to the West, where PMU has been around for almost 20 to 25 years, it is a recent entrant in India’s skincare and beauty space. There has been a huge surge in PMU since COVID-19, observes Dr. Baghi, who added PMU as one of her areas of expertise in 2016. This technique has gained popularity for its ability to save time, maintain a polished appearance, and boost confidence. “Most Bollywood celebrities and influencers have already gotten perfect brows and lips although they don’t prefer to talk about it,” says Singhai, who counts actor siblings Shilpa and Shamita Shetty as satisfied clients. The predominant consumer base for PMU, according to experts, are middle-aged women or those who have skin conditions such as alopecia. “For women above the age of 40, it has huge age-rewinding benefits, and can make people look younger,” says Singhai. But there is a growing number of young urban professionals, who are also opting for PMU for a very simple reason of better time management. “It can reduce one’s makeup time by 20 to 30 minutes,” she adds.

PMU IN THE FUTURE

The potential for PMU is unprecedented, where dermatologists, aestheticians, makeup artists and salon owners are investing and training in different facets of the procedure. The surge in popularity in Mumbai, Delhi NCR and Bengaluru is spreading to tier 1 cities of Kolkata, Hyderabad and others. “India will see a huge expansion of the PMU industry over the next five years as currently, the market penetration and awareness is only at the tip of the iceberg,” believes Singhai.

PMU is a recent entrant in India's skincare and beauty space. There has been a huge surge in PMU since the COVID-19 pandemic. It is said to reduce one’s makeup time by 20 to 30 minutes

Please note that these treatments should only be done under the supervision of a professional.

PMU-specific dos and don’ts recommended by experts:

• Look for artists with proper certifications, a clean and sterile environment, and a portfolio showcasing their work.
• Get an extensive consultation with the PMU technician before the procedure. “It is important that they understand your needs and requirements, as well as your facial structure, to make the correct recommendation,” says Gupta.
• See before and after pictures. “It takes almost four weeks for the skin to heal and the pigment to settle, so it is important to see the fully healed image before taking the plunge,” explains Dr Baghi.
• Experts also emphasise the importance of proper hygiene. Since there are needles that are going to inject dye into the skin, hygiene and sanitation are paramount to avoid any chance of infection.

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