Tales from the Frontier

It's a surreal landscape of snow-covered mountains, soaring peaks, frozen lakes, and a winding, hairpin road that solemnly attempts to scale these astounding heights. We are at Sela, a mountain pass deep in India’s Northeast at a staggering height. In the sprawling swathes of white is a burst of colours – blues, reds, greens, and yellows – fluttering in the chilly winds and breathing a sense of vitality into the otherwise still surroundings. Carrying a message of well-being and compassion, these Buddhist prayer flags welcome us into Tawang, at the remote, western end of Arunachal Pradesh.

A MONASTIC PARADISE

Explore the region’s most iconic landmark, the historic Tawang Monastery. Officially known as Galden Namgyal Lhatse, it was established back in the 17th century on instructions of the fifth Dalai Lama, and the mystical name translates to “celestial paradise in a clear night.” The monastery is reputed to be the second-largest in the world after Tibet’s Potala Palace and was built on top of a ridge, encircled by protective walls to ward off invaders. Amongst the many monastic buildings for worship, cultural studies, and living quarters of the monks, the grandest is the main prayer hall, known as Dukhang. Merely stepping through its intricate doors will take your breath away, for every surface of the hall is vividly coloured and richly decorated! The walls are covered in a profusion of mythological paintings. Carvings adorn the columns and beams, devotional cloths hang from the ceiling, objects of worship and offerings of the faithful are found all around, and in the very centre of these is enshrined a gigantic statue of Lord Buddha. Artworks across the monastery depict the teachings of the Buddha in myriad ways and the most eye-catching ones include the bhavachakra – a wheel-of-life that depicts a series of positives and negatives forming a cyclic existence; and the geometric mandalas that are a representation of the cosmos as per Buddhist traditions.

WHILE IN TOWN

Whereas the main Tawang Monastery is reserved for monks, a short drive away is the charming Brahma Dung Chung Ani Gompa or Thukje Chueling. This nunnery might be smaller in size but is as gorgeous, and the nuns in residence here welcome visitors wholeheartedly too. On your bucket list should also be the Tawang War Memorial, dedicated to the 2,420 soldiers, who laid down their lives during the 1962 war. Built to resemble a Buddhist chorten (shrine) that venerates departed souls, the memorial incorporates traditional elements such as prayer wheels and flags, as also motifs like lotus petals, dragons, and lions. Catch glimpses of the daily flag-lowering ceremony and stay back for the sound-and-light show conducted by the Army that highlights the region’s rich heritage and culture.

VENTURING BEYOND

The stunning scenery continues beyond Tawang town, all the way till the border with China at the Bumla pass, situated at an altitude of over 15,000 ft. The pass is snowbound for almost the entire year and presents a beautiful view of the Tibetan plateau. The roads might be rather rickety, but the views make the journey completely worth it. There are shimmering lakes cradled between majestic mountains, large tracts of snow, and rugged terrain that are characteristic of such high-altitude regions. But a special permit is required to visit the pass. One of the most popular lakes in the region is the picturesque Pankang Teng Tso. Its expansive waters reflect the surrounding snow-capped mountains and a pathway allows a walk all around its extents. Up ahead is Y-Junction, the name of an army post from where the road bifurcates into two: on one side is the tree-stump-filled Sangestar Tso (also known as Madhuri Lake, named after the veteran actor, Madhuri Dixit Nene), made popular by the Bollywood film Koyla; and on the other side is the border road to Bumla. Both these stretches are said to be exceedingly beautiful but require a clear weather day to traverse. However, venturing further can sometimes become a challenge, especially in the case of snowfall. A halt at the Y-Junction is no less interesting. There’s freshly made thukpa, bhajiyas and steaming masala tea, which can be relished over gripping stories narrated by the jawans.

What's More

AN ODE TO THE BRAVE

Along the road from Sela to Tawang is the Jaswant Garh War Memorial, dedicated to the bravery of rifleman Jaswant Singh Rawat, who defended the post from the invading Chinese army in 1962. One can even enter some of the bunkers here.

STROKE OF CULTURE

The traditional Tibetan thangka painting continues to flourish in Tawang. It is not only used to design and elevate everyday objects but is also an important means of religious expression.

Spectacular mountain views, tranquil lakes and monasteries make Tawang, the land of the Monpa Tribe, a breathtaking getaway

ALONG THE WAY

Stop at the town of Rupa for the white-washed stone structure and colourful wooden interiors of its historic monastery. While here, also drive uphill to Chillipam Monastery – a more recent construction inspired by oriental architecture, and embellished with animal figurines.

Getting there: Guwahati is the closest airport to Tawang and the roughly 500-km drive is best done over two days. Halt overnight at Bomdila and visit the Lower Gompa, famed for its massive prayer hall.

Best time to visit The most apt time for a trip to Tawang is till May, when the weather is most pleasant.

H I G H L I G H T S

MUST-SEE

Witness the beauty of the Gudpi and Chong-Chugmi ranges, Tawang chu River and Tawang valley

USP

This region is dotted with Buddhist monasteries. Don’t miss the monasteries at Bomdila and Rupa

WHAT TO DO

Try local delicacies like thukpa and ghyapa kazi, and buy handicrafts and traditional jewellery at the local markets

HISTORY TIP

Don’t miss the historical manuscripts, artefacts, and curios in the little museum within the Tawang Monastery complex

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Shuvajit & Kunal are travel writers and photographers. Follow them on Instagram @RicketyRoads.

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