Symphony of Clouds

Picture a canvas woven in winding alleyways, painted in shades of mists and clouds. Overlay this dreamscape with the ever-present rhythm of a youthful soul strumming a guitar - that’s the mood you step into when you enter Shillong, the capital city of Meghalaya.

SCENIC GATEWAY

The airport-side approach to the city will make it abundantly clear that breathtaking mountains and valleys are a common sight here. The expansive Umiam Lake at dusk or dawn, with cascading hillsides in hues of blue, weaves a surreal experience. Nature lovers are in for a treat as they wander about the place, be it the panoramic view at the end of a meandering path to the Laitkor Peak, treading the gravel path surrounding Ward's Lake, the exhilarating above-the-clouds escapade at the Laitlum Canyons, or the multitude of gushing waterfalls including the Elephant Falls or the Spread Eagle Falls. For the adventurous, a trek through the Khasi Hills along the verdant David Scott forest trail promises a delightful experience peppered by crystal-clear pools and serene valleys. While exploring the surrounds on a day road trip, make sure to stop at the iconic Nohkalikai Falls, one of the tallest plunge waterfalls in India, in the lush Sohra region. The ethereal sight of the waters cascading down evergreen hills is straight out of a dream. Not very far away, experience the thrill of adventure at Mawsmai Cave where you can spot fossils, or stop at the scenic Mawkdok for a cup of tea. In the West Khasi Hills, a few hours from Shillong, you will be awestruck by the beauty of the biggest river island in Meghalaya, Nongkhnum, where you can seek solace as you bask in the sun or go boating or fishing. The island is surrounded by waterfalls and rare biodiversity, and often hosts local festivals.

CULTURAL SYNTHESIS

Shillong's ubiquitous English architectural influence is epitomised in the forest houses, churches, and educational institutes that dot the city. One of the oldest buildings here is the restored All Saints' Cathedral with striking wooden structures. Equally captivating are the stained glass installations at Cathedral Catholic Church in Laitumkhrah. This old-world colonial charm thrives seamlessly alongside the flourishing and diverse tribal heritage - the Khasi, Jaintia, and Garo tribes, among others, each with their unique identity, festivals, and customs. A stroll at the Don Bosco Centre for Indigenous Cultures is a must to understand the region’s cultural heritage. The galleries showcase lifestyle, language, art and culture in detail, with a skywalk panning to a breathtaking 360-degree view of Shillong. Not very far from the capital is what is dubbed 'nature's museum' — the sacred groves of Mawphlang and the abode of the Khasi deity. Take a tour around the village through the monoliths for a peek into the tribal customs and traditions as you soak in the beauty of an enchanting multi-hued lush landscape with a hint of brightly coloured flowers. On the other side, amidst the West Jaintia Hills, is the cultural and commercial hotspot of Jowai that was once the seat of the Pnar kings. It is an ideal place to encounter local culture besides visiting historical attractions like Syntu Ksiar, the 19th-century Jowai Presbyterian Church, Thadlaskein Lake, Ialong Park and the famous Nartiang monoliths. Don't miss the iconic Krangshuri Falls that unveils like a white curtain over a cave, making for a breathtaking view as you descend multiple rocky steps toward it. Also, visit the enchanting Chympe Falls in East Jaintia Hills.

RAP, ROCK AND K-POP

Beyond tribal beats, Shillong's modern melody owes a nod to its Christian influence. Growing up singing hymns, kids here pick up Western notes quickly. Homegrown rock bands like Indian Ocean boast global popularity, attracting heavy-hitters like The Scorpions and Michael Learns to Rock for unforgettable concerts. YouTube rockstars are the latest craze, and catching them live at the Polo Grounds or the Shillong International Centre for Performing Arts and Culture (colloquially SICPAC) is a must. Or, swing by Laitumkhrah’s Cafe Shillong and Dylan's Cafe for a musical feast.

A MOVEMENT IN MOTION

A predominant craft of the tribals in Meghalaya is weaving of cane or cloth. Attractive specimens populate the local markets, especially the Iewduh Bara Bazar, one of the oldest markets here. From cane baskets and lines of tailors to piles of fresh produce, every corner is a vibrant snapshot of local life. The adjacent and more upmarket Police Bazar is the hangout for trendy shoppers. Shillong’s distinctive products and designs were once underrated but with the surge in tourist interest, a wave of young entrepreneurship has transformed the scene. Explore The Craft Collective Cafe & Store for an array of artisanal products, or the Dakti Craft for its exquisite handmade clay and bamboo creations. Peeling back Shillong's layers reveals much more - daily archery traditions, kayaking and canyoning adventures, and epic day trips await the intrepid explorer.

What's More

NATURE'S MYSTERY

Root bridges are a staple of traditional Khasi architecture, facilitating daily pedestrian movement. Not just the Nohwet living root bridge at Mawlynnong, one of Asia's cleanest villages, equally picturesque ones can be spotted at Nongbareh, Padu, Sohra and Nongriat, some of which are double-decker root bridges.

FLAVOURS FOR FOODIES

On the top floor of the Don Bosco Centre, one can taste the diversity of Northeastern cuisines. But the authentic local flavours are in the roadside stalls of momos and jadoh (a rice and meat preparation). Taste a slice of Shillong’s teenage nostalgia packed in Jeves’ Food Corner, or head to the Red Rice in the bustling Police Bazar for a Khasi thali. For the adventurous, doh snam (blood sausages), exotic meat, and fried silkworms await! Pickles made of fiery chillies, bamboo shoots, and berries are perfect gastronomic souvenirs.

LOCAL INDULGENCE

The abundance of fruits and berries, such as the sohiong (black cherry), in Meghalaya's hills and forests makes for exceptional homemade wine. Local shops stock affordable fruit wine throughout the year, but the real magic happens at the stalls of spirited local entrepreneurs during Shillong's countless festivals. One insider tip: sip the pocket-friendly Bhutanese Zumzin peach wine.

In the South Garo hills lies the mystical Wari Chora with towering canyons and a tranquil river flowing through it

BORDER TOWN

Visit the tranquil town of Dawki (around 80 km from Shillong) near the India-Bangladesh to witness the crystal-clear Umngot River. As you gasp at the vast expanse of the river, make a stop at the Dawki-Tamabil border crossing, where the army personnel on the other side of the border oblige by posing for photographs. Take a boat ride on the emerald waters of Umngot before you return.

LAND OF PERPETUAL WINDS

Take a trip to the mystical Balpakram, considered the abode of spirits by the local Garo tribe. Explore the foreboding cliffs, jungles and caves in the region. Visit the famed national park here, which is a treasure trove of animal species, including the endangered wild water buffalo.

Best Time to Visit: The most apt time for a trip to Shillong is between February and June, which is when the weather is quite pleasant.

Shillong is around 100 km from Guwahati, Assam.

H I G H L I G H T S

MUST-SEE

Take a road trip to Mawsynram and Cherrapunjee, considered the wettest places on Earth

USP

With colonial heritage, pretty lakes and hills, Shillong is rightly called the 'Scotland of the East'

WHAT TO DO

Visit Shnongpdeng near the Bangladesh border, for riverside camping and other adventure activities

HISTORY TIP

Visit the Capt. Williamson Sangma State Museum for an insight into ethnic tribal culture and traditions

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Shuvajit & Kunal are travel writers and photographers. Follow them on Instagram @RicketyRoads.

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